Ladies, a Plate

Paris-Brest

Just like an enormous, circular cream puff, Paris-Brest is surprisingly fast and easy to make and is guaranteed to delight any recipient - as long as they like whipped cream. In 1891 a Parisian patissier whose shop was near the route of the Paris-Brest bicycle race was the first to make it, and its wheel shape is the perfect tribute to the bold bicyclists. The crunchy almond praline in the cream adds a highly enjoyable grittiness to this confection and an energetic bicycle ride would probably be a good idea if you eat more than a couple of slices. Or you could always share it with a group of friends on a Sunday afternoon and then go for a leisurely walk.

Make the almond praline first.

1. Preheat the oven to 325º F / 160º C, spread the almonds on a baking sheet and roast them for 10-15 minutes until they are lightly coloured and they smell toasted. Set aside.
2. Put the caster sugar in a small pan over a medium heat. When the sugar starts to melt tip the pan around until all the white grains have melted and turned a pale golden colour. Pay close attention to this process as the sugar can burn very quickly.
3. Tip the toasted almonds into the pot and stir them briefly with a wooden spoon, then carefully tip them out onto an oiled baking sheet. Spread them out to a single layer and leave to set.
4. When the praline is cool and quite hard, break it up into pieces and put them into a food processor. Blend until you have a reduced the toffee to fairly fine crumbs. Store airtight in the fridge until you need it. Praline keeps for several months and can be sprinkled on almost any sweet dessert.

Getting ready

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F/220°C and line a baking tray with baking paper or grease it lightly and dust with flour.  Mark an 8in/20cm circle on the underside of the paper, or on the floured surface.  Sift the flour and salt onto a piece of waxed paper.

Mixing and baking

1. Put the butter into a saucepan over a low heat and pour on the boiling water. As soon as the butter has melted, remove the pan from the heat and tip in all the flour in one go.
2. Beat with a wooden spoon until smooth, then return to the heat and keep beating until the mixture forms a ball and leaves the sides of the pan clean. Put the dough into the bowl of an electric beater and let it cool for 5 minutes.
3. Turn the mixer to medium speed and add one of the eggs. Beat well until the egg is absorbed, then do the same with two more eggs. Beat the final egg lightly with a fork and add it a little at a time. You may not need it all. Keep beating until the dough is thick and glossy and will  stand in a peak when you remove the beaters.
4. Put tablespoonfuls of the choux paste around the circle you have marked. Pile it as high as you can. Now brush it all over with with the extra egg, well beaten, and sprinkle with the slivered almonds.
5. Bake for 15 minutes and then reduce the oven temperature to 375°F/180°C for another 15 - 20 minutes. The ring should be well puffed and golden brown and the sides should feel crisp. Remove it from the oven, make a few small slots in the sides to let the steam escape and cool on a wire rack. (If the inside still seems soft, return it to the cooling oven for another 10-15 minutes to dry it out.

Finishing - no more than 1 hour before serving.

1. Slice in half horizontally with a serrated knife. Whip the cream until it is thick, fold in the praline and spoon or pipe it into the bottom shell. The cream should rise well above the rim of the pastry.
2. Place the top half gently on the cream and dust generously with icing sugar.
3. SERVING TIP - If you use clean kitchen scissors to cut the top layer into slices you can then use a knife to cut through the cream and the lower layer.